In Cairns we did what everyone does in Cairns – went on a boat trip out to the Great Barrier Reef. From the scores of tours available, we chose to go out on a catamaran, which docks with a large pontoon on the edge of Moore Reef. With the pontoon as a base, there are several options for getting your piece of reef action: snorkelling off the side, riding in a semi-submersible boat or simply watching from the underwater observation deck.
We spent most of the five hours we had on the pontoon snorkelling. As it was still “stinger” jellyfish season we adorned head-to-toe lycra stinger suits as well as snorkels, masks and fins. We had chosen (more by luck than judgement) a beautifully calm sunny day, and the reef was nothing short of stunning. The shallow water over the reef swarmed with myriad fish whose outrageously garish patterns wouldn't be out of place in an '80s skiwear catalogue. Some of the fish seemed as curious about us as we were about them, while others scurried under the cover of coral shelves and gullies at our approach.
We even met Wally, an enormous Maori Wrasse that hangs out at the pontoon (these are photos from the tour company's website – we don't have a waterproof camera). In fact, in being male Wally is by definition the largest wrasse in his territory; wrasses are born female, and only change to male when they become the largest, most dominant individual in the area. When Wally dies, the largest female will undergo a sex-change and take his place.
While we were in Cairns, we were entertained by my uncle Hugh and aunt Jennifer, with Hugh cooking up a storm for us each evening.
From Cairns we headed south along the Bruce Highway through fields of sugar cane, bananas, avocados and mangoes. Among the gimmicks used by the numerous roadside ice-creameries and fruit stands to pull in the punters was this giant mango! Some people are so easily sucked in.
Deviations inland from the highway took us into rainforested hills and gorges, all with idyllic waterfalls fitted as standard. Diving into the cold plunge-pools was a refreshing reward for the walk to the falls.
Deviations on the other side of the highway took us to coconut-palm lined beaches and cheerful resort towns.
We had a try of our first fresh-from-the-tree coconut in one of the campsites we stayed at. As you might tell from Andy's expression, neither of us our great coconut fans, no matter how fresh they are!
This stretch of coast is home to the endangered cassowary – a flightless bird as tall as a man, with a colourful head topped by a helmet-like horn. We were massively excited to catch sight of this one munching on road-kill. When they're not tucking into roadkill, cassowaries play a key role in the rainforest ecosystem by eating the fruits of dozens of tree species and distributing the seeds by dropping them in their poop.
Around Cardwell we took a scenic drive and swam in yet more idyllic waterfalls - how tedious!
At Townsville the weather began to change, with threatening clouds rolling in. When we arrived at the Whitsunday coast, the rain was falling like there was no tomorrow. In the photo I'm taking the opportunity to admire the famous views during a brief break in the storm, while on a soggy walk through the coastal forest. We decided not to take a boat trip out to the Whitsunday Islands. With the choppy waters and poor visibility, both above and beneath the waves, we probably wouldn't be getting our money's worth, especially since we had such a great boat trip in Cairns.
But like true Brits, we didn't let the weather disrupt proceedings - here's Andy gallantly BBQing in the rain!
Our next stop was beautiful Eungella National Park, reached by a disturbingly steep and windy road up into the Clark Ranges. Shortly after this photo of the spectacular view from our campground was taken, a cloud descended and there was solid whiteness as far as the eye could see, which was about 3 metres!
Again, determined to carry on regardless, we set off on a walk through the rainy rainforest. As I posed with this magnificent fig tree, we were totally unaware that a battalion of leeches was advancing on our ankles. Only when we reached the end of our walk did we become aware of the little blighters, and we duly spent the next half-hour pulling them off! Eugh.
After our intimate encounter with the native fauna in the rainforest, we were happy to see the animals at a safe distance in Rockhampton Zoo.
More magnificent fig trees were to be found in the adjoining botanical garden, luckily we got away sans leeches this time.
The next leg of our journey takes us down through the Sunshine Coast to Brisbane, the Gold Coast and New South Wales.
